The outlined edges are very precise and I have no difficulty whatsoever focusing not only at a fast aperture but also at f/5.6 or f/8. If there’s a hard edge, which will only happen when something is in focus, there will be high contrast.When the camera sees enough contrast, it will overlay a color on top of the edge. I've had my xt1 for a few months now and while my first lens was the fuji 18-55 I have a 35mm 1.7 (don't laugh, Neewer) that I have on my camera all the time. As shown in the video below, you can also change the colour and contrast of the focus peaking lines to see them more clearly. I want to master focus peaking! Focus peaking has me flummoxed. Manual focusing only necessary in low light for me, this means high speed lenses wide open i.e 1.4 and focus peaking is not helpfull in this situation because of the tight dof i hope to have hybrid focusing systen using both phase and contrast detect at least x-pro1(s) in low light i'm sure that split focus works better. I must confess to knowing nothing about focus peaking so I set up my XT2 with peaking in Red - low. To enable it, go to the menu of your camera. How Focus Peaking Works. The viewfinder shown in the video is from the Fujifilm X-T1. focus peaking on a Panasonic GH5 How to Set Up Focus Peaking. So, focus peaking is looking for areas with high contrast, especially micro-contrast. Fujifilm FinePix HS are a series of bridge cameras that started in February 2010 with the HS10 model (also called HS11). Focus Peaking outlines edges that are in focus for you.. Peaking isn't perfect however—one thing to watch for is that it may not be clear where the plane of sharpest focus is, such as whether it is the eye or the ear, for example, and when using wide lenses or when stopped down (or both), some cameras will give you peaking … It will be particularly handy for people who compose in black and white. Now focus on whatever you want. I read on many blogs how easy it is to hit focus perfectly wide open. Focus peaking, at least on the Sony A7r, is in my opinion nearly useless if you shoot at wide-ish apertures; it is too imprecise given the high resolution of the sensor, so unless you stop down to f/8 or better f/11 what you think being in focus, thanks to the peaking, it will actually be blurred. This peaking area equates to the area of sharpest focus in the frame. In most cameras, you can set the color of the overlay, and change the sensitivity of the detection. With a 35mm f2 lens attached and f2 selected, I noticed that the area shown in Red that is supposed to be in focus was greatly exaggerated when compared to … Focus peaking in colour is great. I seem to have much more success with focus peaking when it’s set to “Low”, but on occasion, adjusting it to “High” may make it more visible. There are three things that can happen. Therefore, if you nail the peaking on your subject, you will nail your focus every time! The special feature of the HS cameras is the manual zoom that - otherwise common only with system cameras - allows a quick and precise change of the focal length but demands two-handed operation. Coloured Focus Peaking. Then, it covers those areas with a false-color layer. The peaking works like my X100s in that you can choose between high or low. You can split the difference and, say, focus at f/4 and shoot at f/8 if you have determined that that’s safe. With focus peaking, it is a different story. What am I missing? The camera looks for “sharp” edges by analyzing contrast. Unless your subject is very low in contrast, the peaking setting that Fuji calls high is going to be too high, so try the one they call low first. I use it on high as I find the peaking more visible and therefore easier to use. Sharpest focus in the frame is a different story easy it is a different story with false-color... 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